There is quite some give or tolerance in all these numbers. Let me say that the best way to get exact info is to get a letter from Smith for about $30 on your gun.
That will give you the ship date, to where, the configuration as it left the factory and some other stuff. For those of us where rough time is OK: 1. Smith has routinely used left over parts to build transitional models, short run orders and what-not. SNs are issued in order sometimes. They have been known to go back and use fill numbers not used many years ago. Mod numbers (M19-3 etc.) have often been know to be mis-stamped. (I was so excited once when I called Mr.
Jinks with a rare find and he said.shoot it. Nothing special.) 4. All the books and notes and sheets of info we have out here are cobbled together the best we can determine. Getting the year right on your gun is pretty good. The best thing that a Smith&Wesson enthusiast can invest in (besides a gun!)is a copy of the 'Standard Catalog of Smith&Wesson,' by Supica and Nahas. It is currently in the third edition and is the best compilation of information so far on S&W firearms.
It includes several apendices, one of which will provide the best guess as to date of manufacture. It is not very expensive and can be purchased through Amazon ($26.39 with free shipping), or any bookstore. Get it and you'll be glad you did. The best thing that a Smith&Wesson enthusiast can invest in (besides a gun!)is a copy of the 'Standard Catalog of Smith&Wesson,' by Supica and Nahas. It is currently in the third edition and is the best compilation of information so far on S&W firearms. It includes several apendices, one of which will provide the best guess as to date of manufacture.
It is not very expensive and can be purchased through Amazon ($26.39 with free shipping), or any bookstore. Get it and you'll be glad you did. 'What year would a model 10 ser number 559y53 about what year shes an older one just curious DW' Hi- Is that the number from the bottom of the grip? Is it stamped 'MOD-10' under the yoke (crane)? After looking at the S/N appendix in the SCSW (Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson), '559y53' doesn't appear to be a serial number for a model 10, victory model, or a pre-model 10. The 'y' in the middle is uncharacteristic of a Model 10 S/N.
Smith And Wesson Model 37 Airweight Serial Numbers
Is the 'y' possibly a misread number? Is there a 'C,' a 'D,' an 'S,' or a 'V' in front of the S/N? If it is a pre-Model 10, or '.38 Special Hand Ejector M&P,' that serial number, 559753, is not finely detailed in the SCSW. It is narrowed down to 1915-1942, serial numbers 200.
You could estimate approximately where it might fall. You might pose this question on the S&W Forum at and get hold of an expert on early models, or someone who has a letter from S&W with a date of shipping of a gun with an S/N close to yours. You could also send for a letter from Roy Jinks, S&W Historian, for $30. Glock Talk is the #1 site to discuss the world’s most popular pistol, chat about firearms, accessories and more. As our membership continues to grow we look forward to reading your stories and learning from your experiences. Membership is free and we welcome all types of shooters, whether you're a novice or a pro.
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I recently purchased a Model 37 with a three inch barrel, serial number 502Jxx. Could anyone please advise me as to the year of manufacture? The revolver came with large wooden grips that are recessed for speed loaders, but the HKS model 36 does not seem to clear it. The grips are Smith and Wesson, so I believe that they originally came with the revolver. Film cinta mati vino g bastian. Can anyone recommend a brand of grips (other than the skinny factory originals common on the model 36's) that might clear an HKS speed loader? Thank you in advance, and Merry Christmas. Thank you for all of your help.
I am sorry for the poor quality picture, but my digital camera is dead, and I had to use the computer camera. I thought it might be better than not posting any pictures at all.
I will check out the Hogue grips, and I may also try Safariland Speed Loaders to see if they work with the current grips. I would like to keep wood grips on it if possible, but if I can't find any properly recessed, such is life. Please keep any information coming, as it is a great help and source of interest to me.
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So you’re on the lookout for a new conceal carry weapon ( CCW). One that’s small, light reliable, and accurate while still packing a punch. Maybe you currently carry a popular semi-auto CCW ( such as a, ) but are looking for something even lighter and smaller. Or perhaps you’ve heard about the reliability of the and you’re now reconsidering your options. Or you’re looking for a solid conceal carry firearm for someone new to carrying. Something reliable, simple and not intimidating. Well, then I may have just the right gun for you.
As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Firearms Survival Guide. To Get Your FREE Copy Of It. S&W Airweight Review Today I’m going to review the.
Specifically, the model 637 because it’s the one I own. The 637 is an SA/DA weapon chambered in 38 Special and rated for Plus P rounds ( we’ll talk more about the slight difference of the 642 model a bit later). All S&W Airweight models hold five shots, and they are very compact at only 6.31” long with a 1.875” barrel. The Airweight frame is an aluminum alloy, and at first touch, you may want to hold on tight lest it floats away. But alas, gravity still holds down its 15 oz empty mass. This reliable revolver is so damn light it makes for a worthwhile self-defense choice for.
As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our #104 Item Bug Out Bag Checklist. To Get Your FREE Copy Of It. The cylinder is fabricated of stainless steel coupled with a steel barrel liner. The little S&W J-frame pistol comes with a synthetic grip in black or ( for the ladies – or men who can appreciate pink). Or you can get an upgrade to a.
Like most revolvers, there is no safety. If you don’t want to shoot, don’t pull the trigger. Has a front sight integral to the barrel and a fixed rear sight. The sight radius is what you’d expect for a small revolver.
That being said, I was surprised by the accuracy demonstrated. Like most conventional S&W revolvers, the Model 637’s single action trigger pull is light with a crisp break. I’m sure this contributes significantly to the inherent accuracy of the revolver. I wasn’t expecting much in the way of accuracy with a 1.875” barrel but was pleasantly surprised. Testing The Airweight On The Range I shot the weapon at my brother’s range the weekend before Christmas.
We sat up some paper targets and fired single action from 7 yards to start. Most of the hits were within 2” of the bullseye after we got the little revolver dialed in. Very, very repeatable performance. Then we moved on to shooting steel. Nothing gives me a sense of satisfaction than hearing the thunk and ring of lead on steel. The range had a series of six 8” diameter steel plates lined up in a row.
We took turns knocking these down and resetting them. The little revolver put the bullets right where I asked it to with no qualms at all. I finally backed off to fifty feet to see what it could do at a distance. After very little practice I could hit five for five steel plates at this distance. Much more accuracy than I expected from such a small revolver.
Of course, this is all single action shooting. The double action trigger pull is much harder, and I make no accuracy claims for this mode of operation. Frankly, I’m just not as steady a shooter with double action. We fired fifty rounds of 130 grain Federal.38 Special copper jacketed target rounds. Finishing the day with fifty rounds of hand-loaded 125-grain copper-plated cartridges ( from my ).
The recoil was very mild, another surprise from such a lightweight weapon. To be sure 158-grain bullets will have more felt recoil, as will. But still, the felt recoil of the 130-grain bullet was a little more than a.22 Magnum.
Felt recoil had no impact on accuracy that day. The little Airweight was a joy to shoot, unlike some other pistols where I’m happy to have shot my last shot of the day. The little J-frame is compact and seems easy to conceal in a woman’s purse. Download play mike shadow i paid for it hacked. It has curves in all the right places and, as I said before, it’s so damn light.
Make no mistake though; this is not an ideal pocket pistol. Its J-frame and dimensions are far too large to go unnoticed in your front pants pocket, unlike my. However, unlike, the Smith will never fail to extract or fail to feed. I carry my Kel-Tec because it’s so damn easy to carry.
If I wanted to upgrade to more firepower, this little snub-nosed 38 Special would be a good choice. But more firepower also requires. The S and five quality represent a fair compromise between size, price, and power. The weapon I bought retailed for $388.
In the revolver world, the 38 Special is the last of the lower recoil rounds. It’s the last stop off on the way to.357 or.44 Magnum – serious recoil rounds not for the timid. But don’t let anyone tell you the 158 grain 38 Special is weak-kneed, especially the.
And finally, the size of the little revolver is what drives the five round limit. But the weight and concealability of this weapon is a good trade-off for the loss of a round of capacity. You simply can’t build a revolver this compact and fit six rounds, unless you drop in power exponentially to the.22 LR. If I’m going to aim at my target, I’d rather have five 158 grain 38 Specials, than eight.40 grain.22LRs – but that’s just me.
Here’s a video covering all the features and details of this “dandy little revolver”. Quick Strip If that’s your case, I suggest you look into.
As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Firearms Survival Guide. To Get Your FREE Copy Of It. S&W Airweight Model 637 vs Model 642 Ok before we wrap this review up I want to talk about the S&W Airweight Model 642. It’s damn near the same gun with nearly all the same features. The main difference between the two models being the exposed hammer with my 637 and the fully concealed hammer with the 642.
Now, this concealed hammer vs exposed hammer is no small matter, especially when discussing concealed carry and self-defense Many firearms this CCW category are DAO ( Double Action Only) with no exposed hammer like the 642. The DAO pistol is hammerless to prevent the hammer from catching on a man’s belt. The design also makes it easier to extract from a woman’s purse, but the internal striker and double action nature of a revolver ( you still have the move the cylinder) require far more trigger pull than a single action-capable revolver. Heavier trigger pulls translate to error in aiming and holding the weapon on target. I always use a hammer with at least the first shot as single action. While at the very short ranges usually associated with a gunfight the error induced by DAO may not be significant.
However, if you want to use the revolver for recreational purposes, like a morning at the range, the SA/DA revolver allows you to shoot for accuracy. Frankly, I have a DAO carry gun ( mentioned above) and I’ll never be as good a shot with it as my Smith and Wesson Model 15-3. On the flip side, even if your shots are more accurate with SA, if the exposed hammer gets hung up when it matters, you may never get your self-defense rounds off because you couldn’t get the gun out of your pocket or off your belt in time. The bottom line is you’ll find this topic under debate across the web and I’m only sharing with you a few of the main arguments. Ultimately if you decide the S&W Airweight is the right gun for you, you’ll need to decide which model suits you best.
Here’s a great video worth watching that compares in detail the subtle differences between these two models. Final Word I realize you have many everyday carry firearm choices. And at the end of the day, only you can make the final choice on what works for you. But you should take a nice hard look at the it offers reliable protection at a mere 15 oz.
For the combination of size, weight, and accuracy it’s a tough little CCW to pass up. As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Firearms Survival Guide. To Get Your FREE Copy Of It. Do you know where the closest nuclear bunker is from your home? There are a lot of.
And is near your home. Above to find out where you need to take shelter.
If you would post pics somebody might be able to tell you how much it might be worth. Open the cylinder.
With it open, look at the Model Number straight below where the barrel screws into the frame. Gold miner vegas swf. Probably M 37, or MOD 37, or MOD 37-1, or something along those lines.
There are other Model Numbers it could be, depending on what frame size it is and what particular model it is. Probably has a 2' barrel, maybe 3' or even 4', again, depending on Model and frame size.
Turn it upside down and look for a serial number on the butt, that is the bottom of the grip-frame. Condition is everything.
Your revolver could be worth anywhere from $150 to $500, depending on the specific Model, barrel length, and most of all, condition. Airweight the term 'airweight' is not a specific model of gun, but rather a reference to a whole slew of guns, made across a 50-year time period, that were all based on a small frame (J-frame) that was made from an aluminum alloy rather than regular steel, stainless steel, or that modern alloy that's like titanium. An airweight.38 S&W is normally a 5-shot snub-nosed revolver. Normally round-butt (the back corner of the grip frame (handle) is rounded off, not squared with a sharp corner).
Normally blued / black finish back in the old days, before the 1980s when nickle finish or stainless steel construction became more popular. If you have a plain-Jane model 37 or 38, two inch barrel round butt blued in fair condition, you might have a gun worth $300.
If it's got a 3' barrel, square butt, it's more rare and valuable. I would love to own one of those, but they bring a pretty penny. If it's a modern gun with a dull silverish finish, there are many like it for sale on Gunbroker where you can compare prices and see values. There are also K-frame Airweights, specifically the S&W Model 12.
I have a Model 12-2 with a round butt and 4' barrel. The Model 12s have 6 shot cylinders. It is true that the vast majority of Airweights were/are the 5 shot j-frames. I have one of those 3' square butt Model 37s.
Paid less than $200 for it, but it is very, very finish challenged. It is mechanically fine, but it looks like it scrubbed around in the bottom of a toolbox or under a truck seat without a holster or any other protection.